Field notes from the places we send people

Skip August. Late May and September hold the same light with a third of the crowds and cooler evenings on the caldera.

A full breakdown of a mid-range week — ryokan stays, train passes, and the temple entry fees nobody budgets for.

Where self-driving beats a coach group, and the three trailheads worth building an entire itinerary around.

How to navigate the souks without a fixer, and which riads are worth the extra it costs to stay inside the walls.